Wildlife Photography

Love Song

I thought I’d share how an image can progress from a mundane photo to a print-worthy work of art. And to celebrate the successful creation of my new release, I’m offering ‘Love Song’ at a deep discount in an introductory Flash Sale!

A few weeks ago I went on a day trip to Whitewater Draw in southeastern Arizona, only a couple of hours from my home. Sandhill cranes in the tens of thousands are wintering there. They roost in the shallow ponds at night for safety from predators and fly out at sunrise to nearby fields to forage. They return to the ponds midday when the light for photography is harsh and unappealing.

Due to our ongoing drought, the water level was low and the shoreline had receded from the designated observation areas. I used a big 200-600mm zoom to catch the action, but everything was pretty far off in the distance. Here’s the shot I captured, straight from my camera. Not too inspiring, huh?

Sandhill cranes mate for life and they keep the bond strong throughout the year by performing courtship displays, not only during the breeding season but all year around. In the far distance I could see this pair dancing, spreading their wings, strutting, and raising their voices in vocalization. I clicked the shutter and grabbed what I could, but by no means could this be called a masterful ‘in camera’ capture!

The first thing to do was look for a crop to highlight the intended subject matter and eliminate the distractions. The saving grace that makes this possible is the fact that my professional camera is capable of taking high resolution images which allows for such a severe crop without pixellating the image. I tried both horizontal and vertical crops, tweaking until I finally settled on this for starters. But again, the background was an uninspiring muddy brown and still included bits and pieces of neighboring cranes.

Some enhancements in Photoshop eliminated the distractions and brightened and sharpened the details. But it still was not an image to write home about.

Back again in Photoshop, the final step was to merge the subject cranes with an artistic textural background, using digital brush strokes to blend, strengthen or soften the effect as needed. I chose this particular background for the soft complementary colors and the spattered white space that helps to frame the romantic duo and erase the last vestiges of neighboring birds.

Posted by Carol in Arizona

Day Trip to Whitewater Draw

Feb 10, 2022

A fun outing last week to Whitewater Draw, not far from home. Whitewater Draw is a wildlife area managed by the Arizona Game & Fish Department. It covers approximately 600 acres of wetlands and riparian habitat and features a large lake. Located only a couple of hours from Tucson, and close to Tombstone and Bisbee, it makes for an entertaining day trip.

Sandhill Cranes in the tens of thousands spend the winter there. The cranes take wing at sunrise, leaving the ponds to forage for food in nearby fields. They return to the water midday to spend the night in safety from predators. Other waterfowl including ducks, geese, herons, egrets and shorebirds are also attracted to the shallow waters and wetlands.

The site amenities are minimal but include gravel parking lots, picnic tables, signed trails, and benches and viewing platforms by the lake shore. Dogs on leash are allowed. We visited on a Tuesday and it was not at all crowded – just scattered small groups of folks enjoying the sights and sounds of nature.

My visit was a casual foray just to check things out. If I had been serious about photography, I would have arrived the evening before, camped overnight, and set my alarm clock to wake pre-dawn to photograph the cranes taking off at sunrise. Still, even though this was just a scouting expedition, I didn’t leave my camera at home.

The cloudy skies were to my benefit, canceling out harsh midday shadows. I was happy with the images I captured that day. I’m still looking through my files for the keepers, but here are a couple I thought were print-worthy.

Be sure to click on the video at the top of this post to hear the sound of thousands of cranes socializing. 

SYNCHRONIZED FOR SPLASHDOWN
Sandhill Cranes glide down for a water landing at the Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in southeastern Arizona. It’s fascinating to see their ability to synchronize wingstrokes in flight.
FORAGING IN THE MUD
I like the pose of this bird, with his lifted foot encased in mud and his eyes intently focused in search of a meal.
Posted by Carol in Arizona

Coming Out of Hibernation

 

Did you miss me?

For bears, it’s time to think about hibernating, but for me – I’m just emerging from my self-imposed pandemic isolation.

My photography is oriented around travel adventures, so the last nearly two years put a serious crimp in my motivation. A trip to Scotland was postponed two years in a row (now rescheduled for June 2023). I also chickened out on a trip this year to Africa where vaccination rates are still abysmal. But for a brief time this summer things were looking promising and I took advantage of that window to squeeze in an Alaskan photo workshop with our intrepid leader Denise Ippolito of A Creative Adventure Photography. Denise does all the hard organizational work and all we have to do is show up for an amazing photography oriented experience! The showing up part can be a challenge however, as you will read shortly.

My photographer sister Patty Hosmer (HoofPrints Fine Art Photo) and I traveled together to the Katmai National Park and Preserve, a four million acre wilderness in southern Alaska. Alaskan brown bears fishing for salmon were the focus of the workshop. Sharing the experience with my sister was double the fun.

Just getting to the site is a challenge in itself. From Tucson we flew on Alaska Airlines to Seattle, connecting to a flight to Anchorage where we spent the night before boarding a third flight to King Salmon, Alaska. Never heard of it? Not surprising – King Salmon is a very small airport that services commercial fishermen, cannery workers and intrepid tourists in that order.

We spent another night’s layover in a rustic apartment in King Salmon. I think we had the last available rental in this very small town and we were lucky to have been offered the chance to share it with another workshop participant. Finally we boarded our fourth and final ride aboard a DeHavilland Beaver bush plane that carried us to our week’s lodging at ATA (Alaskan Trophy Adventures) Lodge.

The pilot strapped us in, told us “don’t touch anything” and took off, leveling off a mere thousand feet or so above the terrain on the 30 mile flight to the lodge. This afforded us a terrific aerial view of the unspoiled landscape and meandering waterways that constitute part of the Bristol Bay Watershed.

Bristol Bay has been in the news for the past few years due to controversy over the construction of the Pebble Mine – a massive undertaking that would destroy the pristine environment in the watershed, and also the thriving salmon fishery – the last one surviving in the world. This past season a record 64.5 million salmon were counted during the salmon run in Bristol Bay as the fish swim upstream from the ocean to the headlands where they spawn and die, but where a new generation hatches. Permits for the mine have been on-again, off-again, but currently the project has been squelched, hopefully forever.

Alaskan brown bears are the 2nd largest species of bear on the planet behind polar bears. Genetically identical to mainland grizzlies, they are bigger because they live in an environment with bountiful food supplies. Bears are omnivores and will eat anything from grass and berries on up the food chain. They even dig up clams on Katmai’s beaches. Salmon season in late July through September is their opportunity to really pack on the pounds before disappearing for months into winter hibernation. At nearby Brooks Falls there is an annual online Fat Bear contest in which hundreds of thousands of votes are cast for the chunkiest contenders. This year’s champion was a 25 year old bear named 480 Otis, who is now a four-time winner of the contest. Otis weighs more than 1,000 pounds and his success even at his advanced age can be attributed to his technique of sitting in the falls, apparently napping, but in fact sharply alert to the prospect of any salmon headed his way for an easy catch.

Our lodge was located on the Alagnak River, a designated Wild & Scenic River. Salmon season had already peaked at our location before we arrived. The biggest, strongest bears had moved on to better fishing grounds. The bears that remained worked hard to catch the few remaining fish. Sows led their small spring cubs on what must have been exhausting treks pacing up and down the well-worn paths for miles along the riverbank. Adolescent bears were especially active and prone to frequent head-first plunges into the shallow river in often futile efforts to pin down a salmon.

We spent seven days, from 9 to 5 each and every day, cruising up and down the river in small open fishing boats that held a guide and two or three photographers. It was a bit on the chilly side but we were squished into multiple layers of clothing topped off by waterproof chest-high waders and boots, hats to keep our ears warm, and mosquito netting to protect our faces from the huge and voracious Alaskan mosquitoes! The skies were grey but somehow we never got rained on – a stroke of luck! I even managed to crack a rib trying to awkwardly exit one of the boats and instead falling flat on the shore, half in and half out of the boat, directly on top of my camera which I was trying to protect from the water.

Back ashore each evening in our rustic cabin, we peeled out of our waders, jackets, sweaters, boots, gloves and hats, and headed off to a hearty dinner in the main dining room of the lodge where we could compare bear sightings and enjoy gourmet cooking (with a heavy emphasis on salmon) and a much anticipated glass of wine. Then back to the cabin for some rushed photo processing before the generator shut down and we were subjected to a mandatory lights out.

One night we were even treated to the fringes of the largest earthquake to hit Alaska in 50 plus years – an 8.2 tremblor that struck some 250 miles away but gave the lodge a good wake-up shaking, cracking a plate glass window and tumbling waders to the floor from their wall hooks. It also did in the septic system for the ‘luxury’ lodge accommodations high on a hill, forcing those occupants to utilize an outhouse for the duration. Patty and I were obliviously happy down by the river in our cabin that featured indoor plumbing.

I took about 20,000 photographs in those seven days. My Sony a1 camera has a high-speed mode that can take 30 frames per second, which comes in handy when action is at its peak, but isn’t so much fun when it’s time to dig through the files looking for the keepers. I’ve been processing bear photographs for the past few months and posting favorites on my Facebook page. There is now a nice collection of these on my website that displays a variety of special moments in the lives of Alaskan brown bears, as well as some other Alaskan wildlife including bald eagles and a red fox that frequented our lodge for scraps. I love to capture intimate moments revealed by the behavior of wild animals as they go about their daily lives. I feel my new collection succeeds in portraying a collage of these small moments frozen in time by the camera’s lens.

Just this past weekend I finally got around to creating my 2022 Alaskan Bear calendar after taking votes on Facebook for crowd favorite images. And once I made one calendar, it was pretty easy to make more – so I can now offer eight different calendars featuring Alaskan bears, African wildlife, seascapes and the Sonoran desert all available for purchase. 

 

 

Posted by Carol in Alaska

Back to Africa

WIN THIS PRINT! “A Mother’s Love”, 12″ x 15″ fine art paper print, digitally signed. Shipped for free worldwide to the winner. Winner to be announced June 1, 2020.

May 2, 2020

In these strange and difficult times, it’s always uplifting to search for a silver lining. Everyone has their own version to help raise their spirits. For me, it is the extra time in my life available to spend on my photo files, digging through the archives in search of hidden gems, in the process enjoying a vicarious repeat vacation to the many places I’ve been so fortunate to travel to over the years.

I took so many photographs during the Kenya photo safari last fall that there has been a lot of unreviewed material to keep me busy. This month I’m featuring quite a few newly discovered images that take me (and you) back to Africa. And since Mother’s Day is coming up this month, I’m especially incorporating mothers in my theme for May.

I just love this image that I’m offering for this month’s free print giveaway, titled “A Mother’s Love”. Lionesses in general are always so affectionate with their offspring, but the snuggly aspect of this portrait really tugs at my heartstrings.

Life in a pride of lions is pretty entertaining to observe. The average size of a pride is about 15, with a few males, several females, and cubs of assorted ages. They share a very communal lifestyle. Adult lions sleep as much as 20 hours each day, males more so than the working mother females, but the cubs seem to be in perpetual motion, romping with each other regardless of age and interacting playfully with all the lionesses. They flirt with the males as well, but with less predictable results!

“Don’t Mess With Me”

The lionesses are the providers, stalking and taking down game to feed the entire pride, while the males show up just in time for the meal. The males are conserving their strength and health in order to be able to defend themselves against any challenger. Young males stay with their birth pride until 2-3 years of age, after which they are forced out before they become a threat to the established males. 

“Cast Out”

I’ll be sharing many more new images from Africa on my Facebook and Instagram pages in the next few weeks so I hope you follow me there as well.

Click below to enjoy a gallery of photos of African wildlife moms and their babies. All are available for purchase over on my website if you decide you’d like to bring the outdoors into your home to brighten those four walls!

 

 

 

 

PS – Just a reminder, anyone who subscribes to this blog is automatically entered in the monthly print giveaways. If you are reading this now in your email, know that you’re already in the drawing.

For anyone else who’d like to participate, just add your first name and email to this subscription page, and you’ll be entered for this drawing and future monthly giveaways as well! Share the good news with your friends!

 

Posted by Carol in Africa

2019 Top Twenty-Five

December 31, 2019

Happy 2020 to you all! I can’t thank you enough for all your enthusiasm and support. It means the world to me and keeps me motivated.

Tomorrow we ring in not only the New Year but a new decade. I’m looking forward to new adventures, photographic and otherwise. January will start off with equestrian competitions on the West Coast. We anticipate some boating adventures throughout the year from our floating base in Dana Point, California. And I’ve already booked a June photo workshop in Scotland with Denise Ippolito to photograph seabirds (puffins and gannets), and another trip with Denise to Bosque del Apache next November for the amazing migrating sandhill cranes and snow geese. Who knows what other interesting subjects will find their way in front of my lens!

But on this last day of 2019, here’s a bit of nostalgia – presenting my Top 25 Most-Liked Photos from social media for the year. Click your way through each captioned image to view in high resolution and to read more about it.

Thank you again for your interest and participation. I look forward to sharing much more with you this coming year.

Cheers,

 

 

 

CLICK FOR PHOTO SLIDESHOW

Posted by Carol in Africa, California

What Are the Odds?

December 24, 2019

I’ve been sharing my ten most-liked photographs from 2019 over on social media, counting down to the final unveiling tomorrow (Christmas Day), but here’s an early reveal for my subscribers. My #1 Most-Liked Photo for all of 2019 is this image of Tira, the one-in-a-million genetically mutated zebra foal.

I started this blog with the intention of highlighting all ten images, but I got to thinking about all the pieces that had to fall in place to actually capture this image, and it led me down a mental detour. So my Top Ten feature is postponed until next week, and today’s post is devoted to Tira and what it takes to capture a photo like this.

As photographers, sometimes it is our privilege to be in just the right place at just the right time to capture something extraordinary and unexpected. We are afforded the great good fortune to not only witness a special moment but to be able to record that moment with our cameras, creating a memory indelibly frozen in time that can be shared with the world thanks to the magic of photography. Such is the story behind my #1 Most-Liked Image of 2019, titled ‘One in a Million’, that we were so fortunate to see and record during our Kenya visit.

Of course, as serendipitous as moments like this are, they cannot totally be chalked up to sheer luck. You can’t capture a photo of a zebra in Africa unless you actually go to Africa which requires days of travel logistics to get to and from. You can’t take a picture without a camera, and a good picture generally requires a good camera. Photographers spend significant amounts of money arming themselves with the best equipment and then suffer the physical wear and tear of schlepping all that gear around the world, usually weighing heavily on their backs. Then there are the uncivilized hours that afford the most beautiful light – before dawn mornings and evening sunsets when breakfast, dinner, and cocktail hour are all sacrificed in subservience to our craft. 

Even with all that groundwork invested in capturing that special moment, it still comes down to the most important ingredients of all to make that image sing: an artistic eye, knowledge of composition, and a level of skill encompassing the technicalities of photography.

And yet, still there is sheer luck. Just a week or so before we departed on our long-planned trip to Kenya, the national news organizations picked up the story of a newly born zebra foal with a startling stripe pattern. We soon realized he and his mother were in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, our destination. Nevertheless, the game reserve is nearly 600 square miles in size. What, we thought amongst ourselves, were the odds that we would be able to find this unique creature and capture it with our lenses? But we hoped, and we made it clear to our driver/guides that this baby zebra was at the top of our bucket list.

Sure enough, our knowledgeable guides took us right to him two days in a row, to photograph to our heart’s content. After those two days, we turned our attention to the pursuit of the many other wild creatures on our list. A week or so later, we heard that the zebra foal and his mother had crossed the river out of the game reserve and into Tanzania and the wilds of the Serengeti. What are the odds that a trip planned more than a year in advance would land us within photographic range of this unique creature during such a narrow window of time?

More about this special foal. He is nicknamed Tira, after Antony Tira, the Maasai guide who first spotted him. The majority of experts say that this unique coat color is a form of pseudomelanism, a genetic mutation that affects stripe pattern. Hopefully, Tira will grow to adulthood, but he faces challenges. He has clearly been accepted by his mother and into the herd, but his unusual coloring will cause him to stand out to predators, rather than camouflage him in a maze of stripes. It is also possible that he may be more vulnerable to disease-carrying biting flies, as one theory says that a zebra’s stripe pattern deters flies from landing on the host. All we can do is wish him well and be thankful that we were given the opportunity to see and photograph this very special animal in person.

Posted by Carol in Africa

Lion Lore

December 9, 2019 – Africa Blog #9

During the brief window of time when the Mara’s early morning light was golden, allowing us to shoot our subjects backlit and rimmed with light, this very imposing lion strolled into range of our lenses.
 
I am not a lion expert, or an African wildlife expert, by any means. I gleaned my information from the drivers, guides and workshop leaders who live and work in this amazing realm, so foreign to our Western world, and generously shared with us a brief glimpse of their envirionment. Once home I engaged in online research to try to get my facts straight – although the Googled facts I found don’t always mesh with each other!
 
I posted this photo on my Facebook page and it was shared in turn by a Kenyan who identified this big cat by his Maasai name, Lolparpit. Lolparpit is quite famous, one of the most successful lions to have ever lived in the Mara. His name means ‘Big Hair’, which is certainly appropriate for this fellow. It is believed that the purpose of the male lion’s mane is the protection of his neck and throat in territorial fights. A full and luxurious mane indicates success on the battlefield. Female lions prefer to mate with males with dense, dark manes, a sign of strength and fighting success in male-to-male confrontations.  
 
Lolparpit is currently one of the dominant males of the Double Cross/Enkoyonai Pride in the Maasai Mara along with his brother Olbarnoti (which means Smaller Boy). Lolparpit and Olbarnoti were both born in 2005 in the Ridge Pride, and from what I have learned online they are quite possibly the oldest lions still surviving in the territory. A wild lion only lives for 10-15 years so the brothers are certainly at the upper end of the longevity scale. Usually, the old males ultimately succumb to injuries sustained in battle with younger, stronger cats for control of a pride. In captivity, lions can survive for 20-25 years. 
 
That said – some simple statistics.  A lion weighs anywhere from 300-550 pounds, males being significantly larger than females and averaging 420 pounds. African lions stand 4 feet at the shoulder and measure about 9 or 10 feet from nose to tail. Their main prey is the ungulates, hooved beasts like the wildebeest and zebras who populate the African grasslands in great numbers, but they will eat anything they can catch from ostrich eggs to buffalo. If they can catch it, they will eat it.  A lion can devour 70 pounds of meat in just one meal. The lionesses are the providers who stalk, tackle and take down the prey, but the males feed first and the cubs are last in the pecking order before the scavengers. Adult lions sleep some 20 hours per day, although to our eyes the cubs appeared to be in perpetual motion!
 
Lions are considered a vulnerable species and could be extinct by 2050! Loss of habitat is a leading contender for blame, but poaching, disease and climate change all contribute. Because they can be a threat to domestic herd animals like cattle and sheep they are often shot and killed as predators. The game they feed on is also dwindling, again due to loss of habitat and a free-range environment.
 
A lion pride consists of two or three male lions, several females, and cubs ranging in age from newborns to teens. When young male lions approach sexual maturity, somewhere around two years of age, they are ousted from their birth pride and have to make their way alone, or in coalition with other rejected males, until they develop enough strength and machismo to challenge the reigning male lions and fight their way back into a pride. A successful challenger will kill the cubs sired by the loser. The Darwinian concept at play is for the DNA of the dominant male to replace that of the defeated, ensuring that the gene pool in succeeding generations reflects the influence of the strongest of the species. Some lionesses, however, have been known to employ clever strategies to protect their cubs, even disguising their parentage, in an effort to protect them from assassination.
 
Lolparpit himself exemplifies this concept. He has sired countless offspring who themselves are passing his genetic makeup on to future generations. Two of the most dominant coalitions of male pride lions, a group of 6 brothers and a group of 4 brothers, were sired by him as well as numerous daughters. 
 
His life story documents a fascinating history of association with different lion prides through the years, based on his wins and losses in such territorial battles. Through them all, he shared his dominance in coalition with Olbarnoti.  These two old grandfathers, even if separated for a lengthy period of time, still greet each other with affection when they meet as shown in this YouTube video.
 
Apparently, Lolparpit was badly injured a few months ago in a fight and there was doubt as to whether or not he would survive. But the KWS (Kenya Wildlife Services) vets stepped in, and here he still is looking glorious in old age. It was a privilege to see this icon of the Maasai Mara.
Posted by Carol in Africa

Pest Control

November 25, 2019 – Africa Blog #8

Adobe Photoshop has an arsenal of tools available for the digital artist. The gem of the collection, in my opinion, is the Spot Healing brush. Every image I take into post-processing gets a once-over with the Spot Heal tool, erasing gray smudges caused by dust on the camera sensor and removing ‘distractions’ in the image that detract from its overall artistic merit – things like stray hairs, a twig in the wrong place, a brown spot on a flower petal. However, the Spot Heal brush had to rise to new heights to deal with the collection of photos I brought home from Africa. The wildlife in Africa is plagued by insects. Flies by the hundreds cling tenaciously to the animals’ bodies. Ticks bite into their underbellies. Our powerful zoom lenses bring these aggravating bugs into sharp focus and no one wants to see a portrait of a lion marred by the congregation of insects clustered on his face. Photographs I captured of an impala at a dead run, fleeing for its life from an attacking cheetah, showed the flies along for the ride – not even dislodged by his high-speed stampede. I captured a lovely close-up head shot of a cheetah, but when I zoomed in to inspect, I found the ubiquitous freeloaders crawling through her fur. Ugh!Spot healing to the rescue – one by one those unsightly insects are zapped until only the fresh bug-free visage of the animal remains. It’s a tedious process, and maybe the resulting images are guilty of portraying wildlife through rose-colored glasses, but honestly – which would you prefer?

Before

After

Posted by Carol in Africa

Cheetahs Don’t Like Water

November 18, 2019

Africa Blog #7Cheetahs, elegant and lithe, are to me the most beautiful of all the cats. We were privileged to witness a wide variety of cheetah behavior, from a mother with six cubs to the Band of Brothers, a ‘coalition’ of five male cheetahs that team up to hunt big game. 

Guides in the Mara have names for the more significant animals. They call this cheetah mother of six young cubs Kisaru. No litter this large has been born in the reserve since 2010. After our trip ended, a litter of seven was spotted! Young cubs sport a mohawk of fluffy hair, called a mantle, that helps to camouflage them in tall grass. Their chance of surviving to adulthood is only about 30% due to several factors including predation by larger cats, particularly lions.
 
Female cheetahs are solitary, and raise their cubs alone. It can be a serious challenge providing meals for so many mouths. They have to hunt in their weight class, targeting smaller game, predominately fleet antelopes like impalas and Thomson’s gazelles. When we first located Kisaru, she and her brood were sunning themselves in full view atop a termite mound. The cubs wrestled and played until eventually hunger kicked in. Kisaru stalked off in search of prey, chirping softly to tell her cubs to follow.
 
A large herd of impala spotted the cats and went into alert mode, ears swiveled forward, watching intently as she strolled casually through the bush. Bigger cats like the lions will give up the hunt if they know they have been spotted, but the cheetah relies on its amazing speed more than the surprise factor. Eventually, Kisaru zeroed in on her target and burst into chase mode. Photographing a cheetah chase is a real challenge when you don’t know how the action will explode – when, in which direction, and with speeds that can reach 70-75 mph!
 
This particular chase was a close call but the impala escaped unscathed and Kisaru returned to her brood empty-mouthed. Energy reserves depleted, she retired to the shade of a tree to recoup while the cubs resumed their antics.
 
In contrast to the solitary females, male cheetahs often form up into groups called coalitions. A particularly famous coalition in the Mara is The Five Brothers. The Masai believe that actually three of the cats are brothers from one litter and the other two from a different litter. But they live and hunt as a team which enables them to tackle larger game. More than once we saw this band of brothers effectively take down a wildebeest, strolling casually through a herd establishing their strategic positions, then attacking and mobbing the chosen victim while one cat reached underneath to clamp onto its throat and suffocate it – a technique that we saw used repeatedly, an effective way to shorten the struggle.
 
In one instance, hyenas had anticipated the hunt and lurked nearby until the kill took place. They immediately moved in and drove the cheetahs off. Hyenas have deadly strength in their jaws. Their bite power at 1000 psi is ranked #8 in the natural world (#1 is Megalodon, #3 is Tyrannosaurus Rex!). The cheetahs are no match for them and they know it. Having done all the work of hunting and killing the wildebeest, the cheetahs ate no more than a mouthful before submitting to the hyenas with only a snarl in protest.
 
The Five Brothers moved on from their stolen meal, traveling with purpose but taking several time outs along the way. They congregated near a lone tree and spent a lengthy period of time sniffing the trunk and marking it repeatedly with their multiple sprays. Eventually, they came across a lone female at a waterhole and surrounded her, clearly interested in mating. She would have none of it, making her displeasure clear, and ultimately they let her go. 
 
Continuing the trek, they reached a river that needed crossing. Cheetahs don’t particularly like water, and this obstacle in their path created some terrific photo ops! Perched on a promontory overlooking the river, one by one they leaped off the cliff down to the water’s edge. From there, they tiptoed across all available stepping stones and sand bars before committing to that final splash needed to ford the river.
Posted by Carol in Africa

The Migration That Wasn’t

October 29, 2019
Africa Blog #4

Our photo safari was timed to coincide with the annual Great Migration, now named one of the Seven Wonders of the New World. Wildebeest in the millions,  accompanied by hundreds of thousands of zebras and assorted gazelles, migrate in a circular rotation 500 miles south in the spring from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara in Kenya, returning again in the October-November time frame, arriving in time for calving season early in the year. Wildebeest are strange-looking creatures. We saw them every day, grazing the grasslands by the thousands, putting us in mind of herds of bison in the bygone history of the American West, a similarity enhanced by their dark color, shaggy mane, and humped shoulders. But they have a lighter frame than the buffalo, and I was surprised to learn they are actually a variety of gazelle. 

The migration is driven by rainfall which causes new grass to sprout up seemingly overnight, forage these grazing animals need for their survival. The great predators follow on the heels of this migration, picking off the young, the old, the weak, the lame and sick that trail behind the mass herds. It is estimated some 250,000 wildebeest die each year on the migration from predation, as well as hunger, thirst, and exhaustion. The wildebeest have developed an interesting survival technique as a species – almost all the young are born within a short two to three-week span in the spring. In all, some 500,000 wildebeest calves are born each season. The short calving season creates an oversupply of vulnerable young calves on the predator menu. As a result, more calves will survive, due to sheer numbers, than if the calving season stretched out over a longer time span.

But despite our timing and the multitude of wildlife sightings we were privileged to see, the one thing we missed out on was the Migration. It’s a pretty dramatic event, as thousands and thousands of wildebeest start organizing into lines and head en masse towards the Mara River, which they must cross in order to head north into Tanzania. Even though the wildebeest are the main force of the migration, the zebras that migrate with them are braver and tend to be the first to test the waters, leading the way. Depending on how wet or dry the year is, the Mara River can be deep with swift currents, forcing the animals to plunge down the riverbanks and swim, or if shallow to splash their way across. Either way, huge Nile Crocodiles are lurking in the water, waiting for an opportunity to grab their prey. When the river is deep, the crocs will pull their victims under and drown them. In shallow water they grab hold and an epic (and gory) struggle ensues that can go on for an hour or more. Obviously, the photo opportunities can be dramatic. But for whatever reason, the wildebeest just weren’t ready to commit during our visit. We witnessed one minor crossing when a herd organized and headed, not to the Mara River, but to the benign Sand River where all they had to do was wade through gently flowing shallow water with nary a crocodile lying in wait. 

But we did see the crocodiles, and they are massive. Specimens have been recorded exceeding 20 feet in length and weighing up to 2400 pounds. They are aggressive and will eat any creature that gets within range using an ambush-style attack, and are responsible for hundreds of human deaths each year. We actually took a lunch break one afternoon on the banks of the Mara, where the crocs were stretched out on the sandy shore or swimming rapidly downstream, accelerating in the strong current. Needless to say, we kept a respectful distance from the river’s edge while we ate.

Posted by Carol in Africa